I had an unforgettable time back then when I first got the chance to live in Derry. I'm grateful that I experienced all of this not just as a tourist. Thanks to my host family, I was able to experience the everyday life and culture of the people up close and personal. Derry, my 'adopted hometown'... The Town I love so well!
Derry (Irish: Doire or Doire Cholm Chille, meaning 'Oak Grove of Colm Cille' or 'of Saint Columcille'), often referred to as the "Maiden City" or "Walled City", is the second-largest city in Northern Ireland (and the fourth-largest in Ireland) with a population of about 100,000. It was the site of the tragic "Bloody Sunday" in 1972, where 14 unarmed people were shot and killed by soldiers of the British Parachute Regiment during a civil rights demonstration, and 13 others were injured. Today, Derry is a very hospitable and safe city, attractive to residents and tourists alike, and well worth a visit. Gone are the days when Derry was marked by checkpoints and police stations, and considered a "troubled province."
Derry, for instance, has the last fully intact city wall The Derry Walls in Ireland, among the best-preserved fortifications in Europe. It takes about forty-five minutes (2 km) to walk around the historic city centre enclosed by the wall. All streets converge at the main square "The Diamond".
The "Craft Village" is also a must-visit. It resembles a medieval village in the middle of the city. Moreover, Derry is one of the most historically significant cities in Ireland. This can be explored through cutting-edge technology at the newly built "Tower Museum" in 2006.
The real attractions of Derry's more recent history are located in the Bogside neighbourhood (Irish: Taobh an Bhogaigh). Here, the history of the area during the Northern Ireland conflict can be viewed through the many murals (political wall paintings). One of the most famous and the first mural by the "Bogside Artists" is undoubtedly the black-and-white "The Petrol Bomber." Completed in 1994 for the 25th anniversary of the "Battle at the Bogside" it shows a boy with a gas mask holding a petrol bomb. Clive Limpkin photographed the boy in August 1969 during the "Battle of the Bogside." The tragic story behind it was learned at the "Free Derry Museum". The children wanted to protect themselves from tear gas with World War II gas masks, unaware that they were actually increasing its effect. To learn more about the "Troubles" life during that time and "Bloody Sunday", one should definitely visit the"Free Derry Museum" in Glenfada Park. Today, the Bogside is a symbol of the struggle for freedom and independence in Northern Ireland and an important part of Derry's history and culture.
At the end of June 2011, the symbolic "Peace Bridge" was inaugurated, connecting the predominantly Catholic part of the city with the Protestant Waterside across the River Foyle. This multimillion-dollar project will probably never be used by many residents of the Catholic working-class area of Bogside, as even 25 years after the Good Friday Agreement, there is still limited contact between the residents of Bog- and Waterside.
“Sandinos Cafe Bar”
“The Peace Bridge”
Derry has a very beautiful old town with many pubs and bars. For example, in "Peadar O’Donnells" (where you meet many locals who are easy to talk to…great atmosphere, fantastic ambiance!) and right next door in "Tracy's Bar, you can listen to "live traditional Irish music almost every day. However, it's best enjoyed during the week, as on weekends, especially Saturdays, it's exceptionally busy and you might not fully appreciate the music. During the week, the pubs are less crowded, and you can even sit at the table with the musicians with your pint and enjoy the music up close. Those who prefer rock music will find "The Gweedore Bar", which is part of "Peadar O'Donnell's," or "Masons" very appealing. I also recommend "Sandinos" in Water Street. The ambiance is extraordinary, and you should definitely take the time to closely examine the pictures on the wall and pay attention to the many details. On Fridays and Saturdays, there's usually live music (traditional, jazz to world music), and during the week, some of the city's best DJs play there occasionally.
Highlights outside Derry – But there is also much to do outside of Derry. The landscape along the Antrim Coast is not only famous for Dunluce Castle, the most picturesque of all Irish castles, the dramatic rocky cliffs, and the quaint little harbour towns and castle ruins, but it is also an experience in itself. The north coast of Ireland is one of the most beautiful coastal landscapes I have ever seen. Actually, the entire landscape of Northern Ireland and Donegal is breathtaking. Many say that here you can find the most beautiful beaches in all of Ireland. A few kilometres northwest and you are in County Donegal, the northernmost county of Ireland. Here, for example, at Slieve League, you can marvel at the highest cliffs in Europe (up to 600 m high), or relax on miles of sandy beaches. At the tip of the Inishowen Peninsula lies "Malin Head", the northernmost point of the Republic of Ireland. Here, in front of the remains of the Irish Defence Forces' lookout tower, you can see the word “ÉIRE” laid out in huge stone letters. This signalled to German planes in World War II that they were now flying over neutral territory.
Arriving
Ireland's largest airport is the Dublin Airport (Dublin Airport). However, there are alternatives. The Derry Airport, City of Derry Airport (Coda), is just 20 minutes from the city center and offers direct flights to and from the UK and Europe. Another nearby airport is the Belfast International Airport, which is about an hour's drive from Derry.
Derry is connected to Belfast and Dublin via the Waterside train station, which is located on the eastern side of the River Foyle. The station is about a 10-minute walk from the city centre.
Arrival from Dublin
Departure: Dublin Connolly Station
Change: Change at Belfast Lanyon Place Station
Booking: Tickets can be booked through Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) and Northern Ireland Railways (Translink).
Total Travel Time: Approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes to 2 hours and 45 minutes
Arrival from Belfast
Departure: Belfast Lanyon Place Station
Change: Direct route. There are direct connections to Derry without any changes.
Booking: Tickets can be booked through Translink, which operates NI Railways
Total Travel Time: Approximately 2 hours
The train journey is known for its beautiful views, especially when following the River Foyle to Derry.
There are regular bus services from Belfast and Dublin to Derry. The buses depart from the Europa Bus Centre in Belfast and the Busáras Terminal in Dublin. Arrival: Foyle Street Bus Station in Derry Europa Bus Centre in Belfast und vom Busáras Terminal in Dublin ab. Ankunft: Foyle Street Busbahnhof in Derry
Arrival from Dublin
Departure: Dublin Busáras (Central Bus Station)
Direct Route: The bus takes you directly to Derry with a few stops along the way.
Booking: Tickets can be booked through Bus Éireann or Translink Goldline services.
Gesamtreisezeit: Ungefähr 3 Stunden und 30 Minuten bis 4 Stunden
Arrival from Belfast
Departure: Europa Buscentre in Belfast
Direct Route: The bus service runs directly to Derry.
Booking: Tickets can be booked through Translink Goldline Services.
Total Travel Time: Approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours and 15 minutes
Derry is accessible via the M2 motorway from Belfast. If driving from Dublin to Derry, follow the M1 motorway northwards. Take the exit onto the A4 towards Enniskillen/Omagh/Derry. Follow the A4 to the Derry/Londonderry exit. From there, follow the signs to Derry. Alternatively, take the A6.
Arrival from Dublin
Total Travel Time: Approximately 3 to 3.5 hours
Distance: About 228 kilometers (142 miles)
Departure: Start from Dublin city center and take the M1 motorway northwards. Pass by the historic town of Drogheda. (Tip: stop for a short visit in the Boyne Valley!).
Continue on the M1: Cross the border into Northern Ireland (note the switch from kilometers to miles on the road signs). Drive past Newry; if time allows, consider a detour to the Mourne Berge.
Follow the A6: After Dungiven, drive on the A6 towards Derry/Londonderry.
Arrival from Belfast
Total Travel Time: Approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours
Distance: About 113 kilometers (70 miles)
Departure: Start from Belfast city center and take the M2 motorway northwards.
Pass by Antrim, a good spot for a coffee break and a short walk through the
Antrim Castle Gardens
.
Continue on the M22: The M2 becomes the M22 and then leads onto the A6, which goes directly to Derry.
Option for a Scenic Route: For a more scenic drive, take the coastal road A2 via the
Giant’s Causeway
and the coastal town of
Portrush
.
Accommodations
Derry has a range of hotels to suit every taste and budget. Popular ones include the City Hotel Derry, the Maldron Hotel Derry, and the Bishop’s Gate Hotel
For a cozier accommodation, Bed & Breakfasts are recommended, and there are many in Derry. They offer a more personal experience and often homemade breakfast. It's also a great opportunity to meet locals and have a chat. Here are a few choices.
The City B&B – This B&B is located in the heart of Derry and offers comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is included in the price, and there's also a garden and terrace available for use. Prices start at about €70 per night.
Angel House Bed & Breakfast – Near the city centre, this B&B offers clean and comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is served every morning, and there's also a garden and a communal lounge. Prices start at about €60 per night.
Fairman House Bed & Breakfast – Located in a quiet suburb of Derry, this B&B provides spacious rooms with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is included in the price, and there's also a garden and terrace. Prices start at about €65 per night.
Abbey Bed and Breakfast – Close to Waterside Railway Station, this B&B offers comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is served each morning, and there's also a communal lounge. Prices start at about €60 per night.
Groarty House & Manor Bed and Breakfast – Situated in a historic manor house, this B&B features spacious rooms with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is included in the price, and there's also a garden and terrace. Prices start at about €75 per night.
For travelers on a tighter budget, Derry also has a selection of hostels. A popular hostel is Hogg & Mitchells , which is located in the city center and offers rooms at affordable prices.
Recommended Daily Budget
Accommodation: Affordable hostels and Bed & Breakfasts are available from 20-30 Euros per night.
Food and Drink: There are many restaurants and cafes in Derry offering budget-friendly meals. A typical lunch costs between 8 and 12 Euros, while dinner at an inexpensive restaurant is about 15-20 Euros.
The pubs in Derry are often a cost-effective option for dinner and drinks. A pint of beer costs around £5 (6 Euros).
Sightseeing: Many of Derry's attractions are free, such as the Derry Walls and St. Columb’s Cathedral. There are entrance fees for some attractions, like the Tower Museum (5-7 Euros) and tours of the Guildhall (free, but donations are appreciated). Overall, you should manage well with a daily budget of 50-60 Euros in Derry.
The history of Northern Ireland, particularly the era of the Troubles, has left a deep impact on its people. If you visit Derry, you'll notice that the city has different names for different people - some call it "Derry", others "Londonderry". This is due to the unique history of the city and reflects the diverse cultural and political perspectives that play a role in Northern Ireland's history. During your visit to Derry, you will certainly learn a lot about this period. "Derry" is commonly used by the Catholic community, while "Londonderry" is preferred by the Protestant population. It's a small but significant detail in the local culture, and it's important and appreciative to respond to this topic with sensitivity and respect.
The pubs in Derry are wonderful places to experience the local culture and hospitality. However, it's good to know that topics like politics and religion are often seen as very personal and sensitive here. An unwritten law in many pubs is therefore to avoid these topics in order to maintain a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere for everyone. Instead, enjoy the music, the food, and the conversations about daily life, nature, and the rich history of the city.
I had an unforgettable time when I first got the chance to live in Derry. I'm grateful to have experienced it all not just as a tourist. Thanks to my host family, I was able to get to know everyday life and the culture up close. The people in the “Bogside” are very warm and honest. And if you're interested in their history, like I am, you can learn a lot about these people. I met many interesting individuals whose stories and fates are closely tied to the “Troubles” and “Bloody Sunday”. Many have lost family and friends and are marked by that time.
Moira's father, a remarkable man whom I greatly admired, once said to me: “Derry is not everyone’s cup of tea”... meaning "Derry is not for everyone," or in other words, “Not everyone can handle Derry””. I can definitely say that this city fascinates me. It feels like coming home every time. “The Town I love so well!” ♥